Monday, 15 July 2024

Norwegian Vibes...

It's Long Ramble time! Willkommen, bienvenue, welcome! Ready for some sweeping generalisations and vibes-based opinions masquerading as 'Insightful and Brilliant Observations on Life'? Goodo. Off we go.

A plate with an open sandwich. Lettuce leaves on bread are covered in an absolute mountain of pink prawns.
Scandi prawns
If you're a long-time reader of this blog, you'll have heard me mention how I'm a big fan of all things Scandinavian. The climate, the lifestyle, the food... it's my absolute bag. I nick the bits I can, and add them to my life wherever possible, fully aware I'm culturally-appropriating and over-simplifying a huge geographical region all at once. Anyway, all of this is particularly pertinent today. I've just returned from five days in Oslo. This is the second time I've spent some time there. My last visit was nineteen years ago. Even though the city has added some new tourist attractions, and I'm older and less boozy than I was back then, I've come home with exactly the same feeling as I did in 2005. That feeling? It's this: When I'm in Oslo, I'm totally relaxed and deeply happy with the world. No wonder I want to copy as much of it as I can.

A close up go my head and shoulders, standing outside, with a pale building in the background. I've got a blonde fringe and brown hair, I'm wearing a black top with small white spots, black sunglasses in a rayban style, and have a silver compass pendant round my neck. My smile is visible.
Happy me
Look, it's a no-brainer really. I'm on holiday. Of course I'm going to be chilled out and mellow. With no writing schedule, no exercise regime, and no run of the mill Merseyside routine, it's no wonder I'd be living my best life. Surely that's the reason I'm happier in Oslo, yes? Except no. My routine is certainly run of the mill at times, but I enjoy it. I quite like my daily UK walks; in fact, they make me feel properly good. Endorphins and all that. And as for the writing schedule, well aren't I the lucky one that gets to do that every day? Besides, I never feel like this in other places. Not to the same extent. Nope, it's more than the buzz of a holiday. 

A view from a boat. Lots of deep-blue water, with a bit of land ahead. It's green and lush, with small cabins and houses dotted about. In the distance in the horizon is the mainland. Houses and buildings along the coast, and mountains in the background. The sky is blue with some white fluffy clouds.
And relaaaaaaaaaaaax
So is it something about Oslo itself? Well the city's on a waterfront. That's always a personal favourite. There are lovely bars and restaurants, the weather has been bright and mostly dry both times I've visited, and there are excellent museums and tourist activities. Is that why I feel so content? Hmmm, not sure. Pick a clement day and the same can be said about Liverpool. I love Liverpool. It's my home city and I'm in and around it most of my days. Yet the bone-deep peace I feel when I'm in Oslo is sadly not replicated in my usual life. It's got to be something else. 

An open air, top deck of a bus. There are a few empty seats and then a man and child sitting towards the front of the bus. The area outside is fill of trees and the sun is shining.
View from
the city bus
The possible answer began to dawn on me while I was listening to the audio commentary of the Hop On Hop Off bus. (Rock and roll, baby!) According to the voice in my ear, Norwegian teachers are not encouraged to use grades to assess attainment. They believe it's important to let children develop at their own pace without the pressure of a standardised level. (I've paraphrased, but that's the gist.) Even though this information was given out as filler on the drive from one landmark to the next, my ears pricked up. How marvellously sane and nurturing. With absolutely no other information about the topic, I immediately warmed to the Norwegian education system. 

The Royal Palace at 8am
Later in the day, people
mill around the driveway
.

The answer continued to dawn. Later, I was walking back to my hotel past the Royal Palace. Unbelievably, it's at the top of the main shopping street. Can you imagine? The palace, with it's gravelly driveway leading to the front door, is accessible from anyone wandering back from the shops. My burgeoning republicanism can really get behind a monarchy that dials down the pomp. The grounds in which the palace sits, are open and free to the general public. I walked through the parkland several times a day in order to come and go. No high fences and no teams of armed guards. Just an open space for the people to enjoy. Monarchies tend to exist within huge inequalities and entitlement, but this one didn't give off that vibe. 

And another thing. Rather serendipitously while I was pondering these thoughts, Ian Dunt wrote a piece about Labour's planned prison reforms. After twenty-one paragraphs (they're short, you should defo click and read) there was a description of the Norwegian prison system. 
'Norway's prisons are humane. Cells have a private bathroom, flatscreen televisions, and good views over pleasant scenery. They are designed to be conducive to rehabilitation, rather than humilating and dehumanising. The idea is that prisoners are punished by the removal of liberty, not the removal of dignity.'

 

A close up of me, in a dark room (bar), with large black-framed glasses, grinning into the camera. I've got a blonde fringe and the rest of my hair it tied back. I'm wearing a black shirt.
More happy me
I've not much experience with prisons, in the UK or elsewhere, but it all adds up to the same thing. It seems like Norwegian people are valued by society. The quality of their lives is considered important. Whether that's as young people in education, those in prison who will be expected to keep to the law once released, or members of society having the freedom to enjoy the beautiful grounds of royal residences. It's no surprise that Noway is often in the top ten of the happiest countries index. When people are valued, of course they'll feel happier than if they are treated badly. That sense of communal happiness will obviously rub off onto visitors like me. It all makes sense. 

Like I said at the top, I'm full of sweeping generalisations here. I haven't exactly scratched beyond the superficial. I haven't got into Norwegian party politics, nor the tensions between the government and the indigenous Sámi people. And less importantly, at approximately £10.50 a pint, it's quite expensive to go on the lash. Look, nowhere can get everything right for everyone. It'd be naive of me to assume because most people seem happy at first glance, then every single thing is perfect behind closed doors. I've spent approximately ten days over nineteen years, in one city of the country. My vibes-based response it hardly rigorous scientific inquiry. But hey, that's not what this blog is about. Vibes and gut instincts dominate! I feel what I feel! Sorry, not sorry!

A large basin style fountain, mounted on a base. About the same height as two double decker buses, it's pumping water out continually, and the sheets of water are falling over the edges of the grey stone basin. The sky is blue, there are sculpted stone male figures standing on the base, holding up the basin. The splashing water creates white spray as it lands.
Vigeland Park - a huge,
 free sculpture park in Oslo
So now I'm back home and already my sense of inner-ease has faded. (To be fair, that's down to catching up on the political news in the US.) But it's not all bad. Not in the UK, at least. We're still in the earliest days of a brand new government. I don't expect perfection but it has to be better than its predecessor. The opportunity to reduce some of the inequalities in society is more likely to be seized now, than it was two weeks ago. The opportunity to ensure more people feel valued is here for the taking. And yes, it'll take time, and the inheritance from the previous government is grim. There's no quick fix. But maybe one day, the UK might give Norway and the rest of Scandinavia a run for its happiness money. And you never know, my inner-peace and contentment might pop back to visit now and then. We can only hope. 

Until then, tusen takk Norge! Once again, you have soothed my weary soul.

Have a lovely week, folks.

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