Monday, 11 November 2024

History Lessons on Holiday...

In hindsight, I'm not sure what would have been better. To have been watching the US election in the middle of a mundane week at home, or have it happen slap bang in the middle of my Berlin holiday - taking out a chunk of tourist time but with enough distractions in the aftermath to keep me busy. I pulled my customary all-nighter regardless. Pre-trip, I'd already planned to write off any activity the following day. Either because I'd be still watching the states declare their votes or because I'd be sleepily celebrating a Democrat win. That was my plan. And then the absolute opposite happened. 

Wednesday was written off because I was sleepily depressed. Tired and sad, scared and angry, and utterly shocked. Perhaps in months or years to come we'll learn - like we did with the 2016 election - there was a vast array of interference. Remember? That was some of what Trump was convicted of earlier this year. But that fact, among other horrendous facts about him and his presidential plans, did not deter lots of people voting for him. Vox Pops of white men* popped up on my screen at various intervals. They kept saying they voted for him because of the economy. Great. That'll help the women who are denied critical health care as they bleed out, immigrants being threatened with deportations, and LGBTQIA+ folks who are filled with fear about their very right to live. But the economy? Oh right. Good work. No, really. 

A section of Berlin wall, and a section of mural. On the wall, there following text is painted on... 'Say yes to freedom, peace, dignity and resect for all. Say no to terror and repression towards all living beings. In the beginning was freedom.' The artist's name and work dates then written underneath. 'Jolly Kunjappu, 1990, 2000, 2009.'
Normal(ish) service for my holiday, resumed on Thursday when I stopped hibernating and tried to crack on. I got the U-Bahn to the East Side Gallery. It has a section of preserved Berlin Wall, covered in murals by artists from all over the world. The myriad art pieces depict freedom, revolution, and rising from tyranny after the darkest periods in history. It couldn't have been more on the nose if it tried. 

An animated open book with the slogan, 'Books are not the enemy, ignorance is,' in blue, black, and red bubble writing.
Writing News 
I've had a week off writing and it's been useful. When I'm at home, even if I'm not physically typing words onto the current draft, I'm never NOT thinking about my current work in progress. Being elsewhere for a week, has provided my first empty-brain moment since August. But there is writing news that's useful to impart. Your US writers are scared. If you like reading books - particularly YA books that include LGBTQIA+ characters, depict experiences of racial discrimination, or push the boundaries of a 'traditional' mindset even a smidge - now might be a good idea to buy a paper copy. Keeping paper copies of banned books is how they survive for future generations. Just a thought.
 
A sunny blue sky and corner of two roads. In the pavement space, there are low, squat, black columns. They fill the area, covering the whole space. Starting off low, they look like they'd reach only knee height at the highest point. This isn't the reality because of the sloping floor, but that's not evident from the photo.
The Memorial to the
Murdered Jews of Europe.
Culture 
Let's get back to Berlin and its charms. It really is a culture-rich city and I don't think I've been to so many museums in a week before. Special shout out to the Stasi museum. It's shown in the film, The Lives of Others and to be there in the flesh was chilling. 
The Holocaust memorial was also very affecting. Small columns of dark grey stone fill a large section of the pavement. As you walk between them towards the middle, the ground gradually slopes, and before you know it, you're surrounded by towering columns that block out all surroundings. No matter which way you turn, you're enveloped, and for a longer-than-is-comfortable time, it feels like you'll never see light again. As I said, very affecting. 

A floor to ceiling picture. In the foreground is a graffitied Berlin wall. There are people on the foreground side, not being able to see over, and taking photos. Over the wall, there 's the 'death strip' area, where there's nothing but barbed wire, and a guard tower. Beyond that, in the background, there's tower blocks,, a tower, and buildings. It's a grey scene.
The scale was massive.
If I were  standing next
to this art work I'd come
about halfway up the wall.
And then there was an art exhibit by the artist, Yadegar Asisi. It's a 360 degree panorama depicting a view of East Berlin from the west side of the wall. Its scale was breathtaking and no picture I could take would ever take would do it justice. 

Me, a white woman with a blonde fringe and brunette hair, am holding a glass if white wine and looking at the camera. I'm wearing a black and coffee striped jumper and am sitting in a low lit bar.
The LOVELIEST wine

Food and Drink 
There's a lot of meat. That's
my impression of Berlin, and, as you know, I'm a pescatarian almost all the time. The thing is, the Bavarian beer hall restaurants were such a vibe, I ate there anyway. And even though I was a bit limited in what I could choose, I didn't care. The atmosphere was boss. What I could rely on, food wise, was my daily massive pretzel. I now know that a massive daily pretzel is enough to cover breakkie and lunch, and keep me fuelled for an active day of sightseeing. Who knew? In other, less German specific food and drink news, I LOVED the version of Sauvignon Blanc that my hotel bar stocked. 

A gif of a street intersection in Berlin. There are people milling around, crossing the road, and there are buildings in the background. In the foreground is a railway bridge with a yellow train travelling over it.
A bit of Berlin
train action
Out and About
The first two days away, I walked everywhere. That meant excessively achy legs and losing the will to live/walk by about 5pm. On day three I worked out how to use the U-Bahn, and the world - well Berlin - was my oyster. It's now been added to my other underground train experiences (London, Paris, Barcelona, Oslo, and New York) and once again makes me wish we had similar where I live. And yes, I know Liverpool has a tiny underground system, but what I really want to do, is be able to get a train within a five minute walk from my house and have the option to get ALL OVER THE PLACE, all with the tap of a card. Sadly my small, Merseyside village has yet to build such a metro system for me. 

So on we go. I'm back home, and at some point I'm going to have to engage with the news again. For example, the German government collapsed while I was there, but it was post-election so I barely noticed. I'm sure my news-junkie status will return at some point. Meanwhile, kind people online are being extraordinarily resilient in suggestions on how to support progressive politics from afar. Buy the art, make the art, support friends and strangers whose lives are threatened, and keep the joy turned up to eleven. It's a plan, it's a start, and that's better than than nothing right now. 

Have a lovely week, folks 

*Not all white men, not all men, not all white people, etc etc. Insert a caveat against generalisations here. I'm simply anecdotally reporting what CNN showed me throughtout Tuesday night. It's also fair to say that the post-election data shows a significant number of white women voted Republican too. 

2 comments:

  1. Very good that one Nicky.
    I stayed up for the election. Lynn went to bed. As she departed I said. Harris will win surely she will.
    How wrong I was. 😩

    ReplyDelete